Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Super Angie...more climbing lingo

FIRST: tonight at Momentum in Sandy is a Woman's rock climbing class. Call me if you want more info! :)  

Climbing is very competitive. Its very special or exclusive if you can say you were the first one to ever do a route. This is called a First Ascent. (So, like you go up Provo Canyon, you see something that looks cool and you hook up some ropes and you are the first person ever to do it. You get to name it: like girltalk, krytonite, baby teeth, super angie is the best...you can pick anyname you like.)

If you can do a route without ever having looked at it, or getting tips (beta) from other climbers, this is called On Site (on siting it). The competition (Nationals) I competed in was an on site comp--we arrived at the gym, we were put into isolation so we couldn't see the route and we couldn't see other climbers do it, and then we were given 1 minute to look at it and then we got to climb it.

Flashing a route is when you do get those tips (beta) from others, but never-the-less, you are able to do the route.

"Did you send it?" Sending a route simply means you finished it.

Crag is the rock area you are climbing at.  "I love hanging at the crag all day with my friends."

Weighting the Rope: When you are doing the things listed above and trying to set a record or trying to climb it pure and honestly, you can not just let go of the rock and hang in your harness. This is called Weighting the rope. So, when I mention that I wanted to do a route without weighting the rope, it simply meant, I didn't want to take a break or fall so that the rope helped me. I wasn't going for a record, nor was a competiting, but its just harder to do a route without putting your weight on the rope.

How do the lines get up to the top in the first place?
     : when someone is thinking of doing a route for the very first time, they will climb up behind the cliff (if possible), reach over the top of the rock (using ropes and harnesses so they are very safe) and use a drill to make holes into the rock to put the top anchors in. Anchors are just like eye bolts with some chains hanging from them.

:If its not possible to hike up behind the climbing area, or if the climber doesn't think thats "pure", he will climb the route, with that dang drill hanging on his back and using different safety things, he will climb and drill. Its very confusing.

     So, those are the ways that that the anchors get to the top. 

You can get the rope up to the top by again, walking around the back and clipping it into the top anchors. Then you toss the rope off the cliff and down to the ground--hopefully not hitting anyone thats down there. :) Then, the person who just did that, can either hike back down to where the rope ends are, or they can repel down like police and super heros do in movies. :)

OR, you can lead climb, clipping into the bolts on the wall along the way and hook the ropes in at the top. 

Okay...did I answer all the questions?

--Super Angie..


4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hi,
Thank you comeing our blog.
Do you like Lolita ?
I'm not interested in it .

Where did you come in Japan ?
Your kids are cute !
Where do you live ?

Charles Miske said...

More definition:

Ethics = a code of "honor" for climbing. Sometimes individual, sometimes localized to a certain climbing area, sometimes generic to a type of climbing. EG: some people do not consider a climb "sent" if you weight the rope or "aid" it.

Aid = you use anything other than the rock for upward progress. Some consider bushes and other natural features "on". Some people will hang on, or "weight" a quickdraw while clipping the rope. Some consider this aiding a route.

On = in a climbing gym, a hold is "on" if it is the same color or has the same color tape as the route. On some routes, features such as the "arete" (corner) are "on", for others they are not. Outside, some consider bushes, weeds, or grass and dirt "on". In an "Elimination" problem in bouldering, holds can be marked "off" (or eliminated) to make an easy route much harder.

Just a few handy thoughts...

Nice posts, btw.

shannon p. said...

Oh, how I WANT to climb! I know you will go with me whenever, that is the only challenge...finding the whenever - aargh!

Super Angie Супер Энджи said...

Oh yeah Shannon...LETS GO!!!

On Belay

On Belay
Brennan Top Roping

Climb On!

Climb On!
Dallin top roping